The Many Flavours of Ixtapa and Zihuatanejo

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Mexican food is as much a colourful tapestry as the brightly-hued fabrics that adorn its restaurant and kitchen tables. Within this culture, woven tightly together by a united sense of pride in local ingredients and the diversity that each region has to offer, there are delicious surprises around every corner.

This spirit led me to spend a week exploring Ixtapa and Zihuatanejo, two neighbouring beach and fishing towns on the southern Pacific coast of Mexico, just four kilometers apart and bursting with distinct energy.

Zihuatanejo, honoured as a Pueblo Mágico (magical town) for its cultural richness and natural beauty, promised authenticity and tradition—and it delivered.

Culinary treasures

In Zihuatanejo, I entered Carmelita’s, a charming open-air restaurant where you are greeted with the aroma of wood fire that embraces you like a grandmother’s hug, an appropriate precursor to meeting matriarch and owner Carmelita herself.

While she jokes that her English isn’t very good, she maintains that you don’t need to speak the same language to communicate lovingly. She uses the universal language of a big smile, combined with the sharing of recipes and cooking techniques passed down from her ancestors.

Chef Carmelita’s mole

Her fresh salsas, consisting of charred tomatoes, onions and chilis hand ground in a mortar and pestle, just wait to be drizzled over all kinds of dishes. Her house poblano mole sauce, bathing roasted chicken (or perhaps you’d prefer enchiladas) is a must-try that comes with a wink from the chef, showcasing how proud she is of the recipe.

Refreshing and floral hibiscus punch (called hibiscus water) is poured all around to cool the heat of various spicy dishes. There is much more to enjoy at this restaurant than one visit can fit in. You simply must go back for more.

Cooking with Chef Felipe

In the pursuit of even more regional delights, I found myself at restaurant Importados Nacionales by chef Felipe Meneses and owner Marianna Senties. Chef Felipe’s menu is a joyous pursuit in preservation, literally. He uses brining, canning and fermentation techniques to transform humble vegetables, chilis and even fish into preserves.

Exceptional bites include brine-aged cocinero fish, reminiscent of pickled herring, served with chipotle dulce (sweet chipotle pepper preserves) and an array of freshly baked breads. All of this done in a cozy space where every inch is used efficiently by the capable staff.

Pozole from Teosintle

A trip to the region wouldn’t be complete without a visit to Restaurante Teosintle for traditional pozole verde, a warm and hearty soup filled with hominy (white corn), chicken and/or pork and served with a variety of toppings like avocado, fresh lime and crispy chicharron (fried pork skin). This soup, steeped in working-class tradition, is best enjoyed with family and friends in the spirit of community.

Baby clams at Kau Kan

And then there was Kau Kan, a clifftop restaurant overlooking Zihuatanejo Bay. As night fell, the mountains glittered, “like a Christmas tree,” one local told me. With that view, fresh clams, tartare, and grilled fish tasted even more magical.

Stunning sea life and sustainability

As with most coastal towns, Ixtapa and Zihuatanejo are teeming with the treasures of the sea, whether you’re a fishing enthusiast, whale watcher, savvy snorkeller, or an all-around seafood lover. As I happen to fit all of the above, it was a real treat to participate in an early-morning fishing excursion guided by marine biologist Claudia Yacuta Castillo.

Marine biologist Claudia Yacuta Castillo

As we fished for plentiful skipjack tuna, Claudia excitedly educated us on local efforts aimed at seafood sustainability. This includes showcasing lesser used fish (such as skipjack) on restaurant menus to take the weight off overfished species like yellowfin. Though sometimes misguidedly called “garbage fish” by locals, an onboard fileting demonstration and preparation of sashimi and “tiritas” (thin strips of raw tuna marinated in lime juice, thinly sliced red onions, local sea salt and habanero chilis) proved that this fish is indeed a delicious alternative. There is nothing quite like fresh fish from the water to the plate in minutes.

Our captain prepares fresh sashimi

A short trip away, Barra de Potosí revealed another side of the region. At sunrise, I glided by boat through mangroves, coffee and pastries in hand, spotting seabirds, leaping fish and even a crocodile. It was an eco-tour as calming as it was eye-opening.

For me, the perfect travel day pairs natural wonder with traditional bites, seasoned generously by local spirit. In Ixtapa and Zihuatanejo—“Zihua” to those who love it—you’ll find all of this, with seconds and thirds gladly offered.

Cala de Mar: a hotel that leaves you speechless

I arrived at the hotel Cala de Mar in Ixtapa, a short 30-minute drive from Ixtapa-Zihuatanejo airport. Spacious and comfortable rooms open to balconies with picturesque views of the blue water stretching to distant islands, waves quietly rolling in.

If I’ve ever seen a honeymoon destination, this is it. The private plunge pool on the balcony made it extra special. The quality of service at this hotel warrants especially high marks, from the attentive and friendly staff to the quality of the food.

The fabulous room service adds to the level of privacy one can enjoy here. The spa boasts massage service and hydrotherapy and can be found on the way down to the water’s edge where you can hop on a swing and watch the waves crawl under your swinging feet!

During my stay at Cala de Mar I was invited to join chef Oscar for a unique culinary experience that is open to all guests—an early morning trip to the beach where fishermen lay out their catch-of-the-day for sale.

Shopping for catch of the day with Chef Oscar

This is followed by a trip to the farmer’s market to gather local ingredients and then back to the hotel’s restaurant terrace for a private cooking lesson. On that morning, we picked up a gorgeous bright red snapper the chef transformed into three dishes: a sope (pronounced soh-peh) topped with diced fish, tomatoes, onions and chili; a flavourful fish soup and grilled filets topped with hibiscus glaze, guajillo chili sauce and fresh local herbs.

Sope filled with Pargo fish, prepared with Chef Oscar

Coconut shrimp at Cala de Mar

This unforgettable hands-on experience wasn’t just a lesson in cooking — it was the perfect finishing touch to the rich culinary treasures I had discovered in Ixtapa Zihuatanejo, leaving me inspired with a deeper appreciation for the flavours of this place.

Getting to Ixtapa and Zihuatanejo

Direct flights are available in the winter season from Calgary and Vancouver with WestJet and Air Canada from Vancouver, Toronto and Montreal. Connecting flights are available from gateways across Canada, with year-round flights available via Mexico City with Aeromexico.

For trip inspiration check out VisitIxtapaZihuatanejo.travel and CaladeMar.com.

For more culinary travel inspiration, try:

How Food Tourism is Feeding Understanding of Canadian Indigenous Culture

Old Meets New in Baja California Sur Where a Culinary Adventure Awaits