Old Meets New in Baja California Sur Where a Culinary Adventure Awaits

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For a week I explored the alluring coastal state of Baja California Sur. I savoured its unique flavours, breathtaking landscapes and heartfelt hospitality. What I found was a world far beyond the usual tourist trappings; a place where time slows down and every moment feels like a celebration of life.

Loreto

Small-town charm, hospitality and convenience in Baja California Sur

We landed in the cozy town of Loreto, situated about 500 kilometres north of better-known Cabo San Lucas on the Baja California Peninsula. I was delighted by the short eight-minute drive to an exceptionally comfy suite at La Misión Loreto Hotel. The ocean-view room with a generous balcony stood out as a comfortable space to enjoy morning coffee while taking in the truly spectacular view.

Sunset on the water Loreto

Pelicans, joggers and the occasional car playing festive Mexican music passed by as we enjoyed the warm sea breeze. Being a small town, everything in Loreto feels like it’s just around the corner. At the charming marina fishermen gather early in the morning. Quaint shops and restaurants are owned and operated by passionate locals. This is a walkable place where friendly faces await at every turn.

Baja California Sur has culinary treasures tucked away in every pocket

As I strolled along sunny streets, I was struck again and again by the smell of mesquite wood grills and toasting tortillas. The cooking begins first thing in the morning and carries on well into the evening.

Of many tasty highlights, there were a few memorable standouts:

A taco-tasting lunch and refreshing Mezcal and cucumber margarita at Baja Haay was a real treat.
Chef Ramiro at Los Olivos presented an elevated take on local seafood with a striking tuna and seabass nori roll.
A sunset buffet at Oasis Restaurant showcased an old cooking tradition of burying oysters (more often clams) under gravel and building a fire atop to slowly bake them under the smouldering embers. These were served with a tangy mustard mayonnaise sauce.
A woodfire-grilled extravaganza of bone marrow, tomahawk steak and chimichurri at Serrano Grill was fantastic.

An aquatic playground just waiting for enthusiastic players

The Sea of Cortez, often called “the world’s aquarium,” is a playground for aquatic enthusiasts. There is a reason people come here and spend months at a time. We enjoyed snorkelling around Isla del Carmen, exploring a shipwreck teeming with tropical fish and a walk to the adjacent sea-salt ponds. Later, I got a taste of sport fishing for yellowtail and sea bass in Puerto Escondido, courtesy of Outpost Charters.

Our guide filleted the fish and prepared the freshest sashimi lunch. We gleefully watched dozens of playful dolphins swimming alongside us as we cruised. Jumping mobula rays, an array of seabirds and hundreds of leaping fish were merely a taste of the wildlife we were surrounded by. I frequently blurted out, “I could live here!”

Old culinary traditions are alive and well

On a warm sunny morning, we ventured up the mountain toward San Javier, one of many mission towns like Loreto. On the way, we visited Rancho Viejo, owned by the friendly Chary and Tista, for a traditional rancher’s breakfast.

The tour of the ranch came with a novel lesson in milking goats to make fresh cheese and hand-shaping fresh flour tortillas.

Fragrant smoke puffed from the chimney of the indoor-outdoor kitchen where the rancher’s wife prepared frijoles (simmered beans), toasted the tortillas on a cast iron slab over a wood fire and prepared and pressed cheese curds from the milk I had just collected.

This humble breakfast served as a lesson in the value of the long-lost simplicity of life we so often forget.

Neighbouring towns offer even more delights

Next, we travelled to Bahía Concepción, about a 90-minute drive from Loreto. Here gorgeous beaches were just starting to fill up with RV explorers from all over mainland Mexico, the U.S. and Canada.

Who wouldn’t want to spend the winter living in such natural beauty? Of all the fantastic excursions and culinary treats we’d enjoyed, the highlight of my trip was a clam-diving adventure and beach picnic with El Burro Baja Tours. After I’d spent at least an hour free-diving for clams and enjoying more sea beauty, our guide, Juan Carlos, ushered us to a beach for the most fabulous picnic I’ve ever enjoyed. I was invited to join in as he and his team shucked Queen clams to eat with lime and local hot sauces, scallop crudo, ceviche and even freshly caught fish grilled over a campfire with onions, peppers and a delightful sauce! This was every culinary traveller’s dream.

Memories of Mulegé

The last leg of our trip was certainly not the least. We carried onward to the heart-warming town of Mulegé for a quick stay at the historic Hotel Serenidad. That evening we were hosted by local owner Javier Aguiar at his family’s Las Casitas restaurant. We were treated to local wine, delicious rock lobster and a lovely homemade rice pudding with crisp, caramelized oats.

All the while we were regaled with heartfelt stories about the charms of Mulegé. To Javier, his guests are like family. It’s that distinct warmth that permeates the whole town and everyone we met. Other great restaurants worth checking out in the area include Orlando´s, El Zopilote Brewing Co., Asadero Super Burro and Mulege Brewing Company.’

In my experience, culinary destinations come in a variety of shapes and sizes. Some are overprized and overhyped. But there is nothing like fresh, local ingredients cooked over an open flame by honest, hard-working people who are eager to share a piece of themselves with whoever they’re with. This is what Baja California Sur has to offer, along with a big helping of sun, sea and sand.

Photos by Paul Lillakas

For additional information please visit: www.loretobcstourism.com and www.visitbajasur.travel

Get more travel inspiration for Baja California Sur:

Where to Eat in Loreto Baja California Sur
A Local Look at the Best of Baja California Sur