An insider’s guide to Loreto, Baja California Sur’s hidden gem

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Loreto sunset

Loreto may be small, but what it lacks in size it more than makes up for in laid-back charm, excellent food and a unique and endless list of things to see and do. Scenically situated between the Sierra de la Giganta mountains and Sea of Cortez on the east coast of the Baja California peninsula, Loreto offers a unique blend of sea, sand and desert, along with a laundry list of natural attractions and watersports opportunities.

It’s also a destination filled with history. Case in point, Loreto was the first Spanish settlement on the Baja California Peninsula (founded in 1697) and the first capital of California. Loreto has also been awarded with the Pueblo Magico (Magic Town) designation for its rich history, authentic local culture and natural beauty both on land and at sea.

Map of Loreto and Baja California Sur

We asked three of our contributors to share some of their favourite aspects of this multifaceted destination: Chef Paul Lillakas on food, travel writer and hotel reviewer Debra Smith on accommodation and host, reporter and producer Nicole Servinis on some of Loreto’s most memorable activities.

Where to find authentic flavours in Loreto

Loreto’s small size might suggest limited culinary options, but food here surprises at every turn. Chef Paul Lillakas highlights the freshest local ingredients and traditional techniques that make dining in Loreto an experience in itself.

Paul Lillakas in Loreto

For any fans of sport fishing—and sashimi—you won’t want to miss the opportunity for Yellowtail fishing out of Puerto Escondido. If you get lucky, you may get to indulge in the freshest sashimi of your life while cruising on the ocean, watching dolphins jumping in the distance.

At Oasis Restaurant you can experience a traditional method of cooking known as almejas tatemadas wherein clams (or in some cases oysters) are buried in a gravel pit and dried romerillo (a local shrub) is set ablaze on top, baking them in their shells. The shellfish are then served with a tangy mustard sauce right on the beach alongside a buffet of other local dishes.

Take a step even closer to the delights of the sea by enjoying a clam and scallop-diving excursion with El Burro Baja Tours. While your guides spearfish for local Spanish mackerel you can take a shot at diving and digging for “queen clams.” Watch, or take part as guides transform the clams into a delightful ceviche right before your eyes. Fresh scallops, plucked and shucked just minutes later, were served simply with a squeeze of lime. Next, freshly- caught fish was cooked in a foil pouch over a fire and gently steamed along with onions, peppers and mustard. The tender fish, flaked into a fresh flour tortilla, was a treat made only more fabulous by the view, the smell of the fire and the sound of gently crashing waves.

For another authentic taste of tradition, seek out a rancher’s breakfast experience in San Javier outside of Loreto. Here, you can dive into a simpler life and try your hand at milking a goat and turning that fresh milk into cheese. Prepare some flour tortillas on a woodfired plancha and enjoy them stuffed with simmered frijoles (beans) and queso fresco (fresh cheese). Here you can appreciate the simplicity of good ingredients served humbly with a truly relaxing farm vibe.

A true culinary highlight in this region has to be Mexican birria, a deeply savoury, saucy braised meat dish usually made from beef or goat. Stuffed into tacos which are then caramelized on the griddle and served with a spicy consommé for dipping, this is hands down one of the best, most addictive dishes you can find.

One of the most taken-for-granted pleasures of Baja California Sur (and indeed Mexico as a whole) is the availability of tree-ripened fruits that offer a level of fragrant flavour we don’t often get to enjoy in other parts of North America. Take, for example, the tree-ripened mangoes and citrus fruits (grapefruit, sour oranges, limes and lemons) that are served alongside tacos, on tostadas, in salads, salsas and in cocktails of all kinds. These fruits are used to perfume all varieties of dishes and drinks and make every day a flavour sensation in Loreto.

Exploring Loreto

Loreto has hospitality with heart

The charm of Loreto extends to the accommodations it offers. Instead of high-rise hotels and sprawling resort complexes common in many parts of Mexico, you can choose from family run hotels and stylish haciendas. Debra Smith highlights some of the best options she’s come across.

Aventuras Hotel

Set in the modern enclave of Nopolo, the newly built Aventuras Hotel will appeal to visitors looking for a sunny escape with all the conveniences of home plus luxury amenities. The rooftop bar overlooks the Bay of California, and there’s a seasonal outdoor pool. Octillo, the hotel’s restaurant, serves up a Mediterranean-influenced menu and award-winning creative cocktails.

Bugambilias Suites Hotel

This pretty, family-run, apartment-style hotel will win you over with friendly service and personal touches. Hop on a free bike and cycle over to nearby Playa la Darsena, a long stretch of warm sandy beach. Watch the sun rise over the Sierra de la Giganta mountains or enjoy the sunset with a glass of wine on the flower-filled terrace. The historic centre and shopping are just a short walk from the gated courtyard.

Hotel La Mision de Loreto

Beyond the rough-hewn oak doors of Hotel La Mision, you’ll find an elegant blend of European and Spanish-influenced decor. Marble floors, rustic Hacienda-style furnishings and soft, comfortable beds create a luxurious and tranquil haven overlooking the Sea of Cortez and the Malecon, Loreto’s esplanade. Relax poolside with a wood-fired pizza or dress for dinner at Los Olivos Restaurant, a legendary local favourite for fine dining.

For more hotels, visit loreto.visitbajasur.travel/where-to-stay

Activities for everyone

Loreto isn’t just a place to relax and unwind (and eat); there is so much to see and experience here. Nicole Servinis shares some of the destination’s most memorable must-dos.

Nicole Servinis in Loreto

Sailing on the Sea of Cortez feels like stepping directly into a nature documentary. Dolphins lead the way, sea lions bask on rocks and blue-footed boobies dive into the water like tiny torpedoes. At pretty Honeymoon Cove, paddleboarding and a beachside picnic allow a serene pause to take in the sun, sea and epic scenery.

Loreto wildlife

A journey inland to La Purísima transports visitors back in time. Kayak along canals framed by palms and mountains and learn traditional skills like tortilla-making, date cultivation and local winemaking. The warmth and pride of the locals make this cultural experience unforgettable.

Loreto is also the birthplace of the Baja missions. The Mission of San Javier, tucked high in the Sierra de la Giganta mountains, offers cobblestone streets, a historic stone church, and a 300-year-old olive tree. Beyond the beaches and watersports, it’s the stories and heritage preserved here that reveal Baja’s true character.

From fresh seafood and traditional breakfasts to boutique hotels and immersive cultural adventures, Loreto offers a rich, authentic experience in Mexico. Savouring its many unique flavours, enjoying its varied and welcoming accommodations, and exploring its natural and historical treasures all make Loreto a truly must-visit destination in Baja California Sur.

How to get to Loreto

WestJet: Direct service. Calgary to Loreto twice weekly with connecting flights across Canada (November-April). Year-round flights are available from major Canadian gateways via Los Angeles or Mexico City.

Want more inspiration for travelling to Baja California Sur? Check out:

Old Meets New in Baja California Sur Where a Culinary Adventure Awaits
Where to Eat in Loreto Baja California Sur
A Local Look at the Best of Baja California Sur